Panthenol is not one interchangeable raw material. A formula may use nearly pure D-panthenol, crystalline DL-panthenol, a 50% or 75% aqueous solution, or a complex in which panthenol is only one component. The label may still say PANTHENOL, but the amount of active matter, processing behaviour and supporting documents can be very different.
Panthenol quick reference
| INCI | PANTHENOL |
|---|---|
| CAS numbers in the reference record | 81-13-0 (D-panthenol) and 16485-10-2 (DL-panthenol) |
| Cosmetic functions | Antistatic, hair conditioning and skin conditioning |
| Common commercial forms | High-assay D-panthenol, crystalline DL-panthenol, 50% and 75% solutions, and multi-ingredient complexes |
| Solubility pattern | Many neat grades are water/alcohol soluble or miscible and oil insoluble; verify the exact TDS |
| Main formulation error | Using the supplied product percentage as if it were the active panthenol percentage |
Formulator Online currently links 121 supplier raw-material records to PANTHENOL. This breadth is useful for comparison, but it also shows why a generic ingredient description is not a substitute for the TDS, SDS and COA of the grade actually purchased.
D-panthenol, DL-panthenol and solutions are not the same grade
Panthenol is the alcohol analogue of pantothenic acid. The published CIR assessment distinguishes dextrorotatory D-panthenol from racemic DL-panthenol and notes that vitamin activity is limited to the D-form. In practical cosmetic purchasing, the product name also tells you whether the material is neat, diluted or supplied as part of a blend.
- D-panthenol, high assay: useful when a compact dosage and defined D-isomer content are required.
- DL-panthenol crystalline powder: a racemic material with different physical handling and only part of the mixture in the D-form.
- 50% or 75% panthenol solution: easier to dose in some processes, but water and stabilising components travel into the formula with the active.
- Panthenol complex or liposome: calculate from the supplier-declared panthenol content, not from the total blend name or marketing dosage.
Never infer stereochemistry, assay or carrier from the INCI name alone. Two materials labelled PANTHENOL can require different input quantities and may bring different secondary ingredients into the declaration.
How to calculate active panthenol correctly
Set the target as active panthenol in the finished formula, then correct for the supplier assay:
Raw material to add (%) = target active panthenol (%) ÷ panthenol fraction in the supplied grade
| Target active panthenol | 98% grade | 75% solution | 50% solution |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0.5% | 0.51% | 0.67% | 1.00% |
| 1.0% | 1.02% | 1.33% | 2.00% |
| 2.0% | 2.04% | 2.67% | 4.00% |
These are arithmetic examples, not recommended use levels. Confirm whether the assay is stated “as is” or on an anhydrous basis, account for the carrier in the water balance, and keep the supplier’s actual specification with the formula version.
Choosing a practical use level
The local supplier dataset contains product-specific guidance ranging from tenths of a percent to several percent. For example, one BASF entry separates recommendations by application, including 0.1–5% across different hair products and approximately 0.5–5% across several skin-care categories. The CIR assessment reported a historical maximum of 5.3% in body and hand products and 5% in skin cleansers and hair conditioners.
Neither number is a universal target or legal maximum. Start with the intended benefit, product type, evidence for the selected grade, sensory cost and complete formula. A 5% supplier recommendation for one grade does not validate 5% of a different complex, and a safety assessment concentration does not prove performance.
Processing, pH and stability
- Identify the delivery form. Confirm powder, neat liquid, aqueous solution or complex before choosing the phase.
- Check the full INCI and assay. A solution changes the water balance; a complex may add humectants, phospholipids, preservatives or other materials.
- Use the supplier’s phase and temperature guidance. Panthenol is commonly handled in the water phase, but a universal cool-down temperature should not be copied across grades.
- Measure finished-product pH. Raw-material pH values in the database vary with concentration and test method. They are not the target pH for the cosmetic.
- Check the package after cooling. CIR describes panthenol as a white crystalline powder and notes that some D-panthenol materials can crystallise during storage. Inspect concentrated solutions and cold-stored samples.
- Run stability and compatibility testing. Follow viscosity, colour, odour, pH and appearance instead of treating initial clarity as proof of shelf life.
Safety and EU interpretation
The 2022 Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety assessment concluded that panthenol, pantothenic acid and the reviewed derivatives are safe in cosmetics in the practices of use and concentrations described in the assessment. The discussion also cautions about residual potentially N-nitrosatable amines and avoiding conditions in which N-nitroso compounds may form.
The European Commission explicitly states that the CosIng glossary is not a list of ingredients authorised for cosmetic use. A CosIng identity and function are reference information; the responsible person still needs supplier evidence, formula-level safety assessment, claims review and current market-specific compliance checks.
Documenting panthenol in Formulator Online
- Create the Ingredient from the exact supplier trade name rather than a generic “Vitamin B5” record.
- Confirm whether the material is D-panthenol, DL-panthenol, a solution or a complex.
- Record assay, carrier, recommended use level, solubility, pH method and processing notes.
- Attach the current TDS, SDS and COA and preserve superseded files for traceability.
- Enter the purchased raw-material percentage in the Formula and record the calculated active panthenol separately in notes or evaluation evidence.
- Save a Formula Version for the batch that passes stability testing.
Frequently asked questions
How much 75% panthenol solution gives 1% active panthenol?
Use 1.33% of the 75% solution, subject to the supplier’s exact assay and rounding rules. The solution contributes about 0.33% carrier to the formula, which should be included in the water balance.
Can panthenol be added during cool-down?
Some grades support cool processing, but the answer belongs to the exact supplier product. Check viscosity, solubility, order of addition and maximum process temperature in its TDS rather than applying one rule to every grade.
Is panthenol the same as vitamin B5?
Panthenol is the alcohol analogue, often called provitamin B5. Pantothenic acid itself is vitamin B5. The distinction matters when documenting identity, stereochemistry and assay.
Sources and scope
- Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety: Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives (2022).
- NIH PubChem: Panthenol, CID 4678.
- BASF technical information: D-Panthenol Care.
- European Commission: CosIng glossary of ingredients.
- Formulator Online local ingredient and CosIng reference databases, reviewed 7 September 2026.
This article is formulation guidance, not a supplier specification, safety assessment or legal opinion.
Open Formulator Online to compare panthenol grades and preserve the exact raw-material evidence behind your formula. Українська версія: Пантенол у косметичних формулах.
